The Darrans: New Climbs

March 24, 2011

New routes

Filed under: Random Stuff — Richard Thomson @ 5:00 am

If you have climbed a new route in the Darrans:

Please go to climbnz.org.nz and register there, if you haven’t already, and add your route.

All the material on this blog has or will soon be moved to climbnz and this site isn’t going to be maintained.

August 3, 2010

Kaipo Wall, 1974

Filed under: Central and Northern — Richard Thomson @ 9:59 pm

The Adventure World of Sir Edmund Hillary: spills on the Hollyford rapids, spills on the Kaipo wall. A classic!

Now free to watch at nzonscreen.com/title/the-adventure-world-of-sir-edmund-hillary—the-kaipo-wall-part-one-1974

June 14, 2010

Darrans on Facebook

Filed under: Random Stuff — Richard Thomson @ 10:01 am

Just search “Darrans climbing” on Facebook and you’ll find all your crusty old mates there.

Trout fishing in the Hollyford

Filed under: Moir Region — Richard Thomson @ 9:46 am

Rick McGregor sent these notes (“based on notes from my climbing logs 12/12/74-11/1/75 and 12/1-14/2/75 and some later notes”) on a route  he climbed on Moir’s mate in the seventies: (more…)

Dreaming of Babylon

Filed under: Moraine Creek — Richard Thomson @ 9:44 am

Rick McGregor sent these notes (“based on notes from my climbing logs 12/12/74-11/1/75 and 12/1-14/2/75 and some later notes”) on various routes he climbed in the seventies: (more…)

April 12, 2010

Where is Pawnbrokers?

Filed under: Central and Northern — Richard Thomson @ 11:13 am

Has Pawnbrokers Rock been gambled away by the Tutoko River? Don French was up in the head of the valley recently: (more…)

October 27, 2009

Northeast ridge of Madeline

Filed under: Central and Northern — Tags: — Richard Thomson @ 3:12 am
Mt Madeline, Darran Mountains

Madeline. You can see the top and some of the middle of NE ridge – the left skyline

Ian Brown and Tom Williams climbed the probable first complete ascent of the North East Ridge of Mt Madeline in February 2009 over two days. The pair encountered fresh snow and rock gendarmes that made for difficult travel on the upper ridge. They bivvied at 1400 metres and thought the route would be about grade 3 on the Mt Cook scale.

July 23, 2009

The Celtic Connection

Filed under: Moir Region, Winter — Richard Thomson @ 9:28 pm

A new mixed route in the McPherson Cirque takes a devious line up the right-hand side of the overhanging wall right of Gomer to reach the top of Rabbit Run. The Celtic Connection is named after the two jokers who climbed it with Al Uren – Scotsman Ron Dempster and Welshman-from-Wellington Max Gough.
Read more and see photos on mountainz.co.nz.
Three pitches to reach Rabbit Run
Grade III, 7
Al Uren, Ron Dempster, Max Gough, July 2009

March 16, 2009

Cragging near Turner’s Eyrie

Filed under: Central and Northern — Richard Thomson @ 3:39 am
Hanging Out the Washing

Hanging Out the Washing

Two routes right by the Eyrie: Hanging Out the Washing, 17 and Having a Bit of a Tidy Up, 22 up the wall just to the left.

It’s All Gone Biltong, 22 is a two pitch arete on a wall below the east ridge of Patuki.

It's All Gone Biltong

It's All Gone Biltong

South ridge of Te Wera

Filed under: Central and Northern — Richard Thomson @ 3:14 am
South ridge of Te Wera

South ridge of Te Wera

Not really fair to describe Te Wera’s south ridge as “Loose in places” – as it says in the guide. “Stone cold old-school classic” does it justice though.

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