Rick McGregor sent these notes (“based on notes from my climbing logs 12/12/74-11/1/75 and 12/1-14/2/75 and some later notes”) on a route he climbed on Moir’s mate in the seventies:
McGregor-McGregor-Terpstra
To the left of Moir’s Mate: Starts at a corner to the right of slabs on the step on the Homer Ridge. (Darrans guide, p61)
3 pitches – MS with some VS moves (c. 16?)
Route description:
First corner to right of slabs on Homer Ridge step. Follows broken corner to top slab.
1. 115 ft. Climb corner past bulge at 40 ft, over a small overlap and into a scoop at 95ft. Layback on a small rib to the right to a second scoop just above. Belay (or continue up right to a sloping ledge below an overhang.) The crack system branches here.
2. 115 ft. Take the right branch and climb to sloping ledge below an overhang. Climb the overhang, then traverse left across a slab (crux, VS/16) to gain a spike in the lefthand crack. Climb the groove above (poorly protected – for the first 80 ft all my runners kept coming off) to a largish sloping grassy ledge.
3. 115 ft. Continue up the groove until faced with a blankish slab. Traverse a short distance left to beneath a small bulge. Make an awkward pull-up over the bulge (VS/16) then continue up easy slab above trending right over a rounded rib to a groove and belay ledge/foothold.
Unrope at pedestal top 10 ft further up.
Descend by downclimbing or abseiling Homer Ridge.
4 and a half hours climbing on first ascent.
First ascent: Rick McGregor, Peter McGregor and Judy Terpstra, 24/12/74 [not 1975]
