War on Terror

 

North face of Mt Terror, six pitches, 19, 21, 18, 18, 20. Much harder than it sounds!
Hugh Barnard, Martin Wilson, March 2008.

“Cragging around the lake was primo with clean and crystally granite. we did two easy routes (three pitches each). My God there is more to do here.” – Martin.

Tags: Westof Milford

Shadowland

Shadowland – Sinbad Gully 300m 27

1) 19, take finger crack through initial wall the past corner and right to belay.
2) 20, up grassy groove then right on flakes to right facing corner system.
3) 23, a beautiful sustained seam.
4) 26/27, continues up the same crack system, a little steeper though
5) Left variant: 25/26.
5) Right variant: 27, some great moves in a shallow corner with small finger locks.
6) 22, the “Lightening Bolt Crack”, a stunning pitch! A corner crack leads around the base of a square-cut roof and into another sustained corner, exit right to the grassy ledge.
7) 26, head up a just over-hung crack for 30m. A beautiful and sustained pitch climbing the crack and small edges.
8) 24, a short steep and rather powerful pitch.
9) 27, the “Bombay Chimney”; desperate, requiring some crazy knee bar action.
10) 26, a deceptively steep corner crack leading to a few of the promised jugs in the last few meters of the route. Very sustained!

Paul Rogers, Derek Thatcher, Mayan Gobat-Smith, Craig Jefferies, Jan 2007.